Getting your First Car
My first car…

When buying a car, be it new or used, it’s important to
know what type of vehicle will fit your needs best. If you’re on
a tight budget and don’t need a lot of room; buying a full size
SUV may not be the best way to go. Buy what you need for now
while the money is tight...you can always splurge and purchase
that new “dream machine” when your finances have improved.
Prior to visiting your local car dealership, do your homework.
Once you decide on the type of car you would like to own, go to
Consumer Reports online and look for the following:
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What is the maintenance report – have there
been many problems with this model?
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Is it the type of car that will have an
expensive insurance premium – convertibles, two door, sports
car, etc.
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What are the average costs for this new
vehicle – know approximately what you should be paying
before you go to the showroom!
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Are there any features you can’t live
without, like AC in Phoenix or a block heater in Fargo?
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Miles-per-gallon is an important thing for
you to consider. You might want to look for a vehicle that
can get closer to 40 miles to the gallon instead of 10 to
15.
Know that a new car has its heaviest
depreciation (loss of value) in the first two years of ownership
so you might want to consider a “new to you” used car.
Buying a New or Used Car
with Financing
So you found the car of your dreams but don't know how you are
going to pay for it? Well there are a few steps involved in
financing.
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Get Your Credit Report: Before you walk into the dealership
and apply for financing you need to know what your credit record
is like. Too many dealers will trick you into believing your
credit report is less than stellar and will try to slide in a
higher interest rate.
See our Credit Check page for more information.
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Decide where you will finance: It's convenient to finance
through the dealer but many times you are not getting the best
interest rate.
Consider the following sources:
a. Credit Unions: If you belong to one, you can usually get much
lower interest rates. Credit Unions are there to serve you, not
themselves.
b. Online Lenders: With lower overhead, online lenders can offer
you better rates than a dealer.
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Check the fine print: Make sure you will not be penalized for
paying off the loan early. Also check the minimum collision
coverage required. If you are used to carrying a $1000
deductible and the lender requires a $500 deductible, you could
be in for a surprise when the bill shows up.
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If you decide to go to the dealer to arrange the financing,
request to see the approval letter from the lending institution.
Dealers can mark up the interest rates and earn commission by
doing this little trick.
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Before signing: Check the fine print ! Always keep a
calculator with you and double check everything.
The differences between leasing and buying.
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Ownership
a.LEASING: You do not own the vehicle. You get to use it but
must return it at the end of the lease unless you choose to buy
it.
b.BUYING: You own the vehicle and get to keep it at the end of
the financing term.
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Up-front costs
a. LEASING: Up-front costs may include the first month's
payment, a refundable security deposit, a capitalized cost
reduction (like a down payment), taxes, registration and other
fees, and other charges.
b. BUYING: Up-front costs include the cash price or a down
payment, taxes, registration and other fees, and other charges.
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Monthly payments
a. LEASING: Monthly lease payments are usually lower than
monthly loan payments because you are paying only for the
vehicle's depreciation during the lease term, plus rent charges
(like interest), taxes, and fees.
b. BUYING: Monthly loan payments are usually higher than monthly
lease payments because you are paying for the entire purchase
price of the vehicle, plus interest and other finance charges,
taxes, and fees.
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Early termination
a. LEASING: You are responsible for any early termination
charges if you end the lease early.
b. BUYING: You are responsible for any pay-off amount if you end
the loan early.
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Vehicle return
a. LEASING: You may return the vehicle at lease end, pay any
end-of-lease costs, and “walk away.”
b. BUYING: You may have to sell or trade the vehicle when you
decide you want a different vehicle.
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Future value
a. LEASING: The lessor has the risk of the future market value
of the vehicle.
b. BUYING: You have the risk of the vehicle's market value when
you trade or sell it.
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Mileage
a. LEASING: Most leases limit the number of miles you may drive
(often 12,000-15,000 per year). You can negotiate a higher
mileage limit and pay a higher monthly payment. You will likely
have to pay charges for exceeding those limits if you return the
vehicle.
b. BUYING: You may drive as many miles as you want, but higher
mileage will lower the vehicle's trade-in or resale value.
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Excess wear
a. LEASING: Most leases limit wear to the vehicle during the
lease term. You will likely have to pay extra charges for
exceeding those limits if you return the vehicle.
b. BUYING: There are no limits or charges for excessive wear to
the vehicle, but excessive wear will lower the vehicle's
trade-in or resale value.
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End of term
a. LEASING: At the end of the lease (typically 2-4 years), you
may have a new payment either to finance the purchase of the
existing vehicle or to lease another vehicle.
b. BUYING: At the end of the loan term (typically 4-6 years),
you have no further loan payments.
Consider all the costs involved in a lease.
At the beginning of the lease, you may have to pay your first
monthly payment; a refundable security deposit or your last
monthly payment; other fees for licenses, registration, and
title; a capitalized cost reduction (like a down payment); an
acquisition fee (also called a processing or assignment fee);
freight or destination charges; and state or local taxes.
During the lease, you will have to pay your monthly payment; any
additional taxes not included in the payment such as sales, use,
and personal property taxes; insurance premiums; ongoing
maintenance costs; and any fees for late payment. You'll also
have to pay for safety and emissions inspections and any traffic
tickets. If you end your lease early, you may have to pay
substantial early termination charges.
At the end of the lease, if you don't buy the vehicle, you may
have to pay a disposition fee and charges for excess miles and
excess wear.
Negotiating a lease, this which can be
considered:
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The agreed-upon value of the vehicle--a lower value can reduce
your monthly payment
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Up-front payments, including the capitalized cost reduction
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The length of the lease
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The monthly lease payment
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Any end-of-lease fees and charges
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The mileage allowed and per-mile charges for excess miles
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The option to purchase either at lease end or earlier
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Whether your lease includes “gap” coverage, which protects you
if the vehicle is stolen or totaled in an accident.
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Ask for alternatives to advertised specials and other lease
offerings.
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Know your rights and responsibilities
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When you lease a vehicle, you have the right to use it for an
agreed-upon number of months and miles turn it in at lease end,
pay any end-of-lease fees and charges, and walk away
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Buy the vehicle if you have a purchase option
take advantage of any warranties, recalls, or other services
that apply to the vehicle.
You may be responsible for::
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Excess mileage charges when you return the vehicle. Your lease
agreement will tell you how many miles you can drive before you
must pay for extra miles and how much the per-mile charge will
be.
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Excess wear charges when you return the vehicle. The standards
for excess wear, such as for body damage or worn tires, are in
your lease agreement.
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Substantial payments if you end the lease early. The earlier
you end the lease, the greater these charges are likely to be.
Auto insurance companies now think your credit
score is an important indicator of whether or
not you are a safe driver. Some say it carries
more weight than your driving record. More than half of all auto insurers are believed
to use credit scoring in setting insurance
rates. A spokesman for Allstate Corporation says
it helps them keep the cost of insurance low and
allows for a more fair underwriting structure.
Consumer advocate groups object to the practice,
saying credit scores reward some groups of
consumers more than others. They say insurance
should be rated by the driving record, not what
a person’s income level might be. The Consumer
Federation of America is urging Congress to rule
against the practice. About 20 states have
introduced legislation to prohibit or restrict
the use of credit scoring, and several have
ruled that it cannot be the sole factor in
premium or underwriting decisions. Arkansas has
banned the practice entirely.
A driver who paid cash for everything, paid on
time, and had a perfect driving record, said her
insurance cost rose because she had no credit
history.
Insurers say credit scoring provides a
consistent, reliable tool to evaluate the risk
of insuring someone, and it is not
discriminatory.
A credit score is based on outstanding debt,
length of credit history, late payments,
collections, bankruptcies, and new applications
for credit.
Additional Car
Buying Resources click here |